The following sequence of photographs shows how a concrete roof tile roof is installed and finished off. The installation of a terracotta roof follows much the same procedure.             

	Step 01. The roof tiles are delivered to site on shrunk wrap pallets. They are then craned around the site.
	Step 02. Everything required to complete the job including tiles, fittings, battens, sarking and any accessories are all deliver to site with the first delivery.
	Step 03. The ladder is raised to the roof and is fitted into a purpose made gutter guard. The tilers can now access the roof.
	Step 04. Any required safety signs are installed so all other trades and visitors to the site are aware that tilers are working. Ideally no other trade should be on site.
	Step 05. The rafter lengths of the roof are measured from fascia line to ridge. The correct set out of the tile courses is then calculated.
	Step 06. A gauge rod is then marked up with the correct set out points for that rafter.
	Step 07. A string line is used to mark the row of top set out nails.
	Step 08. The gauge rod marked earlier is then used to mark the correct set out points on each rafter. Set out nails are then hammered into these points.
	Step 09. The battens are now raised onto the roof. The battens should always be lifted up behind the fascia & gutter to avoid any possible gutter damage.
	Step 10. The battens are carried over the roof and are laid down on the set out nails that were installed earlier. The tilers can now walk on the battens.
	Step 11. With the battens now all on the roof, the next step is to install the roof sarking if the job requires it.
	Step 12. The sarking is carefully unrolled across the roof starting at the bottom of the rafter.
	Step 13. The set out nails are pushed through sarking and is trimmed at valleys and hips.
	Step 14. The battens are laid across the sarking being supported by the set out nails. This also prevents the sarking from lifting in the wind.
	Step 15. If the sarking membrane is holed at any time, a special sarking patch tape is used to repair the hole.
	Step 16. The battens are cut at hips and valleys and the sarking is progressively installed to the entire roof.
	Step 17. The roof battens are nailed to the rafters with a high pressure nail gun. The nails used will vary depending on the fixing requirements of the roof.
	Step 18. The next step is to rig up the tile elevator. An elevator prop is nailed to the roof and the elevator is rested on it.
	Step 19. The tiles are then placed on the elevator belt and they are lifted to the roof. Before they go the PVC bundle tie is removed.
	Step 20. The tiles are distributed across the roof and rested on the battens. Care is taken to load the roof evenly.
	Step 21. The anti ponding board that supports the sarking at the fascia line is now fitted. Clouts are used to fix the APB to the rafters.
	Step 22. In this picture the APB can be seen under the sarking.
	Step 23. The tiles are clipped down using tile clips in the required quantities as per the fixing requirements.
	Step 24. Valley seal can be installed under the valley cuts to prevent valley flooding and to support valley cuts.
	Step 25. All cuts at the valleys are scribed so they will fit neatly into position when cut. A special tile cutter is used.
	Step 26. The valley cut is positioned in the valley. Sometimes the cut will need to be supported. Chicken wire or a small piece tile can be used for this.
	Step 27. Very small cuts will need to be siliconed into position. The silicone should be squeezed under the lap of the cut and wiped clean as shown here.
	Step 28. The finished valley is swept clean of any tile debris. The finished valley should have a minimum gap of 100 mm.
	Step 29. The off cuts from the valley cuts seen here are now used as hip cuts. This reduces waste and saves time.
	Step 30. The hip cuts are fitted down the hip line.
	Step 31. When the top course of tiles needs to be cut, a special "Short Course" clip is used to secure these cuts.
	Step 32. Win the past these cuts would have needed to been drilled and screwed to the batten.
	Step 33. When all of the various tile cuts have been fitted next step is to dry lay the ridge fittings.
	Step 34. All hip and ridge lines are covered with ridge fittings. The fix is now complete. The tilers will finish off the job when other trades have finished.
	Step 35. When the tilers return to finish off the roof they mix a bedding mortar using a fatty loam and cement in a 4:1 ratio. The mortar is carried up in buckets.
	Step 36. A bedding frame is used to give the tilers a guide to lay down the bedding mortar and also keep the ridge tiles straight.
	Step 37. When the hips are finished the tilers follow the same procedure to install the ridge tiles.
	Step 38. When the ridge and hips are done the bedding is pointed smooth with a trowel. At this point a steel rod is used to form the weep holes in the bedding.
	Step 39. In this close up shot you can see how the weep holes allow any moisture that collects on the head of the tiles under the ridge to drain.
	Step 40. Where two hips and a ridge line intersect a purpose made apex tile is used to cover the intersection.
	Step 41. With all fittings now bedded down, the tiler commences pointing the ridge fittings with a flexible pointing that is colour matched to the roof.
	Step 42. In this close up you can see how the flexible pointing forms a 3mm-5mm skin coat over the bedding. This skin is flexible and will not crack and fall out.
	Step 43. On gable ends tapered barge tiles are often used to seal the end of the roof. The starting barge is marked and trimmed to fit into the gutter.
	Step 44. The starting barge also has bird wire inserted to prevent vermin getting into the roof space and to provide reinforcing for the pointing.
	Step 45. With the starter barge in place the rest of the barge are screwed into the barge board. They are a dry fitting and are only pointed at the base and the gable apex.
	Step 46. The apex barge tiles are trimmed to allow fitting of the ridge tiles.
	Step 47. The ridge is bedded in and the joins are pointed with bedding to seal them and prevent water ingress.
	Step 48. The whole gable apex area is then finished off with flexible pointing.
	Step 49. The base of the gable is bedded using the bird wire for support. A weep hole is formed and the flexible pointing is trowled on.
	Step 50. With the roof complete the site is cleaned up with all roof rubbish and debris being placed in bins or designated rubbish areas.